A day trip to Segovia is irresistible, last time I visited it was a two and half hour rattling ride across the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains, now it’s a 25 minute high-speed ride through mountain tunnels. Even though the new high-speed line has attracted lots more visitors, Segovia is still one of Spain’s most stunning hilltop towns.

There’s the improbably massive 16th century cathedral, a magnificent 11th century Alcazar, which claims to be the inspiration for Walt Disney’s castle in Cinderella but my highlight is the amazing Roman aqueduct. It’s over 2,000 years old and built with two tiers of granite blocks formed into arches without a trace of mortar.

The well-worn path through the town is crowded with tourist shops and cafes but off the beaten track we found the perfectly Spanish Meson de Patricia, without a word of English on the menu and full of local people for lunch. Spaghetti for starters, pork on the bone stew with chips for main, a couple of glasses of wine, ice cream and coffee to finish. All for 10 euro, the price of coffee and cake on the tourist trail.

The high-speed line is incredibly quick but lacks the drama of crossing the snow capped Sierra de Guadarrama, so we decided to return to Madrid on the slow train. The dozen little station stops maintain a vital link between small mountain communities and Madrid. The train climbs and meanders through mountain passes, past deep valleys and mountains still glinting with snow in April.

Madrid started off with a dodgy taxi driver who said his meter was broken and overcharged us - a good reminder that we're back in a typical big city. Enquiring after a good tapas area we were directed to Plaza Santa Ana which was all overpriced tourist cafes where a small beer cost 3.20euro when they could be had elsewhere for 80cents.

Traditional free tapas are hard to find in Madrid but they do exist. El Tigre in Calle de los Infantas, just behind Gran Via, has incredibly generous tapas – 3-4 items with each drink. I was so full after 3 beers that I had to go somewhere that didn’t give free food and that was Cerveceria Montaditos, on calle Mayor. This is where a tinto de verno became my Madrid drink of choice – a pint glass filled with ice, draft red wine and lemonade - fabulously refreshing for one euro.

This was the first train without individual compartments so not such  an easy opportunity for the railway-conman to corner tourists. The first hour or so was an uninspiring mix of shanty towns, dull flat landscpe & the occasional eucalyptus plantation. Later there were hills, orchards & olive groves.

Tangier was a very pleasant surprise as there was little evidence of its unsavioury & seedy past, although I'm sure its there somewhere. There was far less hassle from locals as in Marrakech & the taxis were staggeringly cheap - a ride to Cafe Hafa was 50 cents & the taxi had a broken meter but he said it would be about 50 cents, a ride from there to the sea front was 80 cents. Compared to Marrakech where every 20 diram ride started with a quote of 50 & you had to argue it down.

The faded elegance of the French colonial architecture is very appealing & although a bit ramshackle the city was surprisingly tidy & litter free. The medina was as confusing as people had suggested as there were many blind alleyways that forced a backtrack & increased the disorientation but it was fabulously colourful with less tourist tat than Marrakech. 

The beach & seafront walkway could easily have been in Nice except the beach was better. The beach side was lined with disco/nighclub venues which didnt get going until around midnight. Outside of hotels beer was hard to find but a great place on the seafront was 'Beer & Tapas'  which is exactly what it was with great beach & sea views.

Tangier is on the up, a mix of Europe & North Africa & seems to have shaken off its sordid historical image. But if, like an American girl's blog I've just seen, you're expecting a twee, colourful Arabian Nights experience - you'll be disappointed & sadly out of pocket. 

The train route returns the same way to Casablanca after which the landscape becomes dull & flat with factories, warehouses, shanty towns, empty blocks of flats & a surprising amount of vacant land. 

Rebat is probably the least visited national capital, most people are not even aware that it is Morocco's capital city. It's impressive modern station opens onto a wide tree lined street & sleek modern trams criss-cross the city. The high walled medina is large but modest compared to Fez & there are few tourists so there are virtually no touts or conmen doing the rounds.

Medina street food was excellent but the cows skull with meat chunks hanging off it was off-putting but, unlike at home, at least you know what you're eating & that it's fresh. Beer was hard to find but a French shop keeper directed us to a street & said listen for the music & behind a huge blank door was a bar packed with men drinking with blearing music & football on TV. It looked intimidating but staff & customer were friendly & chatted, shanking hands when we left.

It was an interesting visit but I'd rather have spent more time in Tangier.

The fast ferry from Tangier to Spain is just 40 minutes. A bus at the port of Tarifa transfers passengers to Algerciros but you need to be quick as the driver doesnt wait around. It's a slow train from the tiny station to Grenada.
Residents of Grenada really have life sussed. Every age group is out and about to the small hours, including babies in pushchairs & toddlers playing with each other. There are small tapas bars everywhere & a drink always brings a small plate of something tasty.
The inter-generational pattern of life really bring order & respect so at 1.30 in the morning, after a night partying - there's not a drunk to be seen, or heard. Sadly in the UK the streets would be filled with noisy drunks accompanied with a few fights & plenty of vomit. A sad contrast of cultures

But the Easter Palm Sunday street celebrations look very much like a Ku Klux Klan procession!

Of  course the iconic square of Jemaa-el-Fna is the place to go in the evening. It's become quite a theme park but one you've never see before. Compared to Fez it's very touristy - thousands compared to Fez's tens of dozens but it's still an amazying spectacle. It's heaving with crowds, horse & carriages, acrobats, snake charmers, the monkey man, muscians, countless food stalls & legions of hawkers to badger you, especially if you sit still.

The souks leading off the square tend to be full of tourist tat,  more than a bit of it is 'made in China' & not forgetting Rolex watches & iPhones for a few quid! Having a drink on a rooftop terrace is touristy but gives a great alternative perspective on what's happening in the square.

Phoney guides who ensure that you get ripped off are all around the world & are something travellers jut have to be awre of but in Marrakech they've stepped up a gear. They'll hang around your hotel & spot targets emerging. A little way down the street they will casually pass you & say 'hello, remember me, I work in your hotel (name provided) this is followed by a general chat that includes 'it's my day off & I'm going to an auction (or similar) just for locals - why don't you join me'. Disarmingly persuaive when it first happens.

Tourist hotels within the Medina charge premium prices but beyond the Medina walls in the New Town there ar the usual chain hotels & western fast food outlets but also cheap, safe & decent hotels like the Tachfine hotel for 30 euro a night, a tenth the price of a tourist hotel in the Medina. It's only a 2 star standard but has a great rooftop terrace with views of the Atlas Mountains & beer for 2 euro.

Located down an unprepossing alleyway le Maison Arabe is all arabian charm, originally a cluster of local houses it was converted into a grand riad & in the 1980s into a unique hotel. Its querky layout reflects the originality that has been preserved - several staircases, courtyard, terraces & patios, pool area all manage to maintain its mysterious  Arab heritage. 

Service levels are through the roof & outclass most European 5 star hotels; check-in is being whisked to an airy courtyard, given a fresh lime & ginger iced drink whilst paperwork & bags are delivered - fabulous.

Pretty decent train. The predictable railway carriage conman joins us as the train departs - indicators are middle age male, smartly dressed, rolled up newspape, no luggage & begins talking immediately (unlike ordinary locals) asking details of your journey & where you're staying. When you don't giv him this he moves on to sit by another foreigner.
Travelling west towards Casablanca the countryside is green & hilly with rock outcrops that remind me of Derbyshire, except for the vines & olive trees. There are lush river valleys & white hilltop villages; shepherds & cattle grazing & plenty of donkeys work in the fields. 
Sprawlling estates of modest highrises surround Casablanca, strangely all signage & tickets refer to it as Casa Voyagiers? Change trains, stop for lunch & board the Marrakech Express  on-route from Tangier at 14.50. Travelling south, flat farmland gives way to steep barron hills & the prickly pear cactus becomes the dominant vegetation. There are oasis' of orange & olive groves where prickly pear is  planted as protective hedging & then  we pass through a range of high hills before entering Marrakech at 18.05.

A pretty ordinary city on arrival but checking in to Riad Fez, just inside the old Medina, was a characteristically Moroccan surprise of stunning opulence hidden behind a simple facade. The public areas are bewilderingly grand & ornate while the rooms are spacious & full of character. 

The 9th century old Medina used to be the Moroccan capital city & is an utterly amazing medieval marvel. It is the oldest & best preserved medieval city in the Arab & possibly the whole world. It is vast, walled & a maze of alleyways without any new buildings - children roam wild everywhere, holy-men call people to preys, old beggars, artisans of every trade are busily at work, there are bicycle operated generators, donkeys are constantly bringing goods to the thousands of shops that are primarily for locals.

Serving local people shopkeepers rarely badger or bother foreigners but of course a tourist shop or in the evening tourist restaurants will. Young men & boys will offer to take you to hard to find highlights, which can be very useful but they don't usually leech on to you if you say no. Of course some people will barefaced lie if they are trying to get a sale out of you - just like banks, insurance companies or used car salesmen at home.

Alleyways have other alleyways leading from them, often there are specialised market courtyards - the honey market, one for tailors, another for cobblers & shoes & probably everything else imaginable. it is surprisingly tidy & rubbish free with the smell of spices, fruit & cooking pervading the air although near the tanneries there is the vile stink of death.

Not only is the Medina at Fez a unique example of medieval architectural archaeology that maintains all of its original functions - the most amazing aspect is that the people have maintained the ancient lifestyle to go with it.

There's no time to see Tangier but I'll be back again for the ferry in 9 days. The train potters at a modest speed so there's time to appreciate the sights from the window - an amazingly green & fertile landscape, mountains in the distance & plenty of horse & cart transport on the roads.
Discover a fairly routine racket of con-men riding the trains trying to set up easy pickings on arrival - or worse. They're usually well dressed, middle aged men apparently returning home just like the traveller. They are overly friendly & enthusiastic, quickly extracting details of your journey & where you're staying. Be vague & not too friendly. On our 4 hour journey we had 3 men joining our carriage & when getting little response they upped & left, targeting foreigners in subsequent carriages - nobody simply loves foreigners that much, unless they are after something.