A pretty ordinary city on arrival but checking in to Riad Fez, just inside the old Medina, was a characteristically Moroccan surprise of stunning opulence hidden behind a simple facade. The public areas are bewilderingly grand & ornate while the rooms are spacious & full of character.
The 9th century old Medina used to be the Moroccan capital city & is an utterly amazing medieval marvel. It is the oldest & best preserved medieval city in the Arab & possibly the whole world. It is vast, walled & a maze of alleyways without any new buildings - children roam wild everywhere, holy-men call people to preys, old beggars, artisans of every trade are busily at work, there are bicycle operated generators, donkeys are constantly bringing goods to the thousands of shops that are primarily for locals.
Serving local people shopkeepers rarely badger or bother foreigners but of course a tourist shop or in the evening tourist restaurants will. Young men & boys will offer to take you to hard to find highlights, which can be very useful but they don't usually leech on to you if you say no. Of course some people will barefaced lie if they are trying to get a sale out of you - just like banks, insurance companies or used car salesmen at home.
Alleyways have other alleyways leading from them, often there are specialised market courtyards - the honey market, one for tailors, another for cobblers & shoes & probably everything else imaginable. it is surprisingly tidy & rubbish free with the smell of spices, fruit & cooking pervading the air although near the tanneries there is the vile stink of death.
The 9th century old Medina used to be the Moroccan capital city & is an utterly amazing medieval marvel. It is the oldest & best preserved medieval city in the Arab & possibly the whole world. It is vast, walled & a maze of alleyways without any new buildings - children roam wild everywhere, holy-men call people to preys, old beggars, artisans of every trade are busily at work, there are bicycle operated generators, donkeys are constantly bringing goods to the thousands of shops that are primarily for locals.
Serving local people shopkeepers rarely badger or bother foreigners but of course a tourist shop or in the evening tourist restaurants will. Young men & boys will offer to take you to hard to find highlights, which can be very useful but they don't usually leech on to you if you say no. Of course some people will barefaced lie if they are trying to get a sale out of you - just like banks, insurance companies or used car salesmen at home.
Alleyways have other alleyways leading from them, often there are specialised market courtyards - the honey market, one for tailors, another for cobblers & shoes & probably everything else imaginable. it is surprisingly tidy & rubbish free with the smell of spices, fruit & cooking pervading the air although near the tanneries there is the vile stink of death.
Not only is the Medina at Fez a unique example of medieval architectural archaeology that maintains all of its original functions - the most amazing aspect is that the people have maintained the ancient lifestyle to go with it.
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