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Champagne road trip a tasty route
From the West Australian: April 2007
Have you ever wondered if French Champagne is just an over-hyped sparkling wine and whether it really justifies the price? I bet like me you can only name half a dozen well marketed brands of French Champagne but unbelievably there are thousands of different brands throughout the region. Some are large corporations that buy up grapes from other growers and market aggressively around the world. Others are small family vineyards that have grown and produced Champagne for generations and sell most of their production in France and to vineyard visitors.
The big Champagne Houses such as Moet & Chandon and Lanson are in north Champagne around Reim and Eperney. But it is in south Champagne, an area called the Aube, where you find the small traditional family run Champagne Houses. They are run by families who have grown their own grapes and made a limited volume of their own Champagne for generations.
The Aube is a beautiful rural area often overlooked by visitors to France and forms the southern border of Champagne with Burgundy. Troyes is the principal town of the Aube and used to be the ancient capital of Champagne.
Driving south on the "Champagne Route" the chalky, vine covered hills roll away in every direction and stone houses and traditional villages dot the picturesque landscape.
There are 26 Champagne Houses in the Aube's well-organised "Champagne Route". Houses on the route welcome visitors provide tours (which vary with the season) and the highlight is of course tasting. There's no pressure to buy but at $19AUD a bottle how could you resist. If you don't want to buy there may be a small charge ($4) - but at half the price of a glass of Champagne in a bar its excellent value. The route is well signposted and a map is available from the Tourist Board - www.aube-champagne.co.uk.
What makes visiting Champagne Houses in the Aube so special is the charm and enthusiasm of the family owners, it's a treat to meet growers and winemakers instead of the PR people of the large famous brands in the north. These small Champagne producers give the lie to the stand-offish reputation of the French, they are very welcoming and there is always someone with good English........